(Maine) We all do dumb things once in a while...

[kimmyizme]

You're right, they LOVE the waxworm! They don't get them at every meal though, maybe once or twice a week. The Herp Society guy I was talking to told me that they should have more than just one type of bug so that they get all the different nutrients.

That little bit of skin shed on his tail came off shortly after that photo was taken. He had shed earlier that day.

We have been keeping them on newspaper. We read that was OK, at least temporarily. They also have half logs and store bought branches in their tanks.

[Priestess]

I have a few things to add from my herp knowledge and my own experience with leos.
(1) Some females (like chickens) will lay eggs regardless of whether or not they are fertilized.  No big deal, just keep them in good weight and make sure there is plenty of calcium and somewhere to lay.
(2) Female leopard geckos can retain viable sperm in their bodies for up to a year after mating.
(3) Geckos should not have waxworms more than once every two weeks.  They are extremely fattening, and fat geckos can have liver and kidney problems, which may end up killing them.
(4) Mealworms are also a little fattening, and the calcium:phosphorus ratio contained in their bodies is not optimal.  Also, some geckos can have problems passing the mealworms because of their hard shells.  One more caution:  there have been cases of superworms (giant mealworms) being able to eat their way out of an animal if they are not chewed up really well before being swallowed.  Regular mealworms are much smaller than superworms, but I would still use caution, and if you're worried about it, cut the heads off before feeding them to your geckos.  I recommend feeding mealworms no more than once a week.
(5) Crickets have the best calcium:phosphorus ratio found in insect foods these days, from what I've read.  Stick with crickets for the most part, and only feed worms as a treat.
(6) My personal favorite substrate for geckos is calcium sand.  They can dig in it to their heart's content (which some will), and it will not hurt them.  That walnut shell stuff is very absorbent, and can literally suck the moisture right out of the animal.  Also, if they eat that stuff, it can very easily cause and impaction.  Regular silica sand can also easily cause impactions.
(7) Desert animals should be provided with a wet box.  These are easily made by cutting a small hole in the side of a clean butter or large cream cheese container, and filling the bottom with sphagnum moss.  Be sure to keep it moist, and if the moss starts to get gross, dump it and replace.  Female leos will also generally prefer to lay their eggs in these wet boxes.  These are very important for shedding properly and retaining moisture.
( When the leo is about to shed, it will not hurt it to soak it for 15 minutes a day in lukewarm chlorine- and chloramine-free water until it sheds.  Also, all reptiles should be soaked for 15 minutes once a week to keep them clean and hydrated.

I think I've thought of everything I used to do and the advice I usually give to new leo owners.  If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to email me at gaiaspriestess@hotmail.com

Good luck!

[star2]

One more caution:  there have been cases of superworms (giant mealworms) being able to eat their way out of an animal if they are not chewed up really well before being swallowed.  Regular mealworms are much smaller than superworms, but I would still use caution, and if you're worried about it, cut the heads off before feeding them to your geckos.  I recommend feeding mealworms no more than once a week.

(6) My personal favorite substrate for geckos is calcium sand.  They can dig in it to their heart's content (which some will), and it will not hurt them.  That walnut shell stuff is very absorbent, and can literally suck the moisture right out of the animal.  Also, if they eat that stuff, it can very easily cause and impaction.  Regular silica sand can also easily cause impactions.

( When the leo is about to shed, it will not hurt it to soak it for 15 minutes a day in lukewarm chlorine- and chloramine-free water until it sheds.  Also, all reptiles should be soaked for 15 minutes once a week to keep them clean and hydrated.

I must say I disagree with the superworms chewing through gecko's stomachs.  Do you have a website for this?  Because of a gecko's stomach acid, the superworms wouldn't be alive long enough to chew a hole.  If you did read this, perhaps it was a very sickly/lethargic gecko?
Also, you said your favorite substrate was calcium sand.  I'm against calcium sand.  Leopard geckos may see it as their source of calcium, but the particles don't dissolve completely, and have been known to cause impaction.  The safest substrate is paper towel, but slate tiles look nicer.
I'm not sure about a 15 minute soak in lukewarm water.  If the water was too warm, with high humidity, it could cause respiratory problems, but because water cools so quickly, it could end up lowering a gecko's body temperature.  IMO this isn't necessary.  For my humid hide I use a cool-whip container with a door cut out, and I keep paper towels on the bottom.  If I see my gecko is getting ready to shed, I spray the humid hide.
Again, these are my opinions, and things I have gathered on forums and from herptologists (sp?) so I'm not saying you're wrong! 

[kimmyizme]

Hmmm...  I think Star2 or Priestess should adopt the last Gecko!!!

[Priestess]

I lied, silkworms have the best ratio.  They have higher protein, lower fat, and about a 1:2 calcium:phosphorus ratio.  Crickets have about 1:3.  Considering that a reptile's blood ratio should be 2:1, this would most likely be easier achieved with silkworms.  But they're expensive, and not easily found outside of the internet.

And I wish I could have another leo, I miss my little guys.  But my parents would kill me.  I'm already trying to get rid of five rats and six mice... you want any?   

[kikoalex]

The Calcium Phosporus ratio can be "modified" by including a calcium/phosphorus powder both to the "insect's" food and sprinkling onto the insect itself before feeding.

NEVER has there been evidence of a healthy gecko being consumed from the inside (or outside for that matter) by a mealworm, superworm or otherwise.  This should only be an issue for an unhealthy animal.  If you've ever watched a healthy gecko eat, the insect never makes it to the stomach alive.

I feed: Mealworms, superworms and silk worms (when I can steal them from my hubby's silk worm farm).

Kimmyizme- Would you be willing to ship the little guy?  We just got a new kitten, but hubby may be willing to take him in to add to our 1.1 geckos.

***My female has a genetic deformity that makes her infertile (I haven't established if this means she can't lay eggs, or the eggs she lays are infertile).  My geckos live in separate tanks, but near each other (since they won't eat otherwise).  I have NO interest in breeding.

[kimmyizme]

Kimmyizme- Would you be willing to ship the little guy?  We just got a new kitten, but hubby may be willing to take him in to add to our 1.1 geckos.

I'm sorry but no, we won't ship. We tried it once and it was a fiasco, the post office couldn't promise 24 hour delivery and when we unpacked the geckos they were covered in feces and completely freaked out. They were only packed up for about 20 minutes.
I won't put them through that again, I'm sure you can understand.

[kikoalex]

NP.

It can be done, but of course, it always depends on the "Carrier" which can be a problem dependng on where you live.

Here's hoping he finds a GREAT home.